I've been to back-to-back conference in the last week or so, and my head is swimming with information, most of it about communicating to consumers: What messages resonate with Gen X-ers v. millennials? Why should "engage" replace "educate" in all communications strategies? How did so much inaccurate information become accepted as gospel and how can the damage be undone?

At the 2018 International Livestock Congress in Houston, I was reminded that the misperceptions the meat industry struggles with have been decades in the making. First, when listening to Nina Teicholz recap her research on how the nutrition field and much scientific research has been overrun by politics, an allegation painstakingly documented in her book, "The Big, Fat Surprise."

Her experience was echoed by USDA's David Klurfeld, the Agricultural Marketing Service's national program leader for a host of areas of nutrition research. His experience serving on the 2015 Dietary Guidelines Committee — watching research supporting red meat in a healthy diet be dismissed while thin data that pointed to issues was promoted — was dismaying and disheartening. This, especially as the gears of the 2020 process grind into action.

Amidst all these perspectives, one phrase jumped out at me: "Beef needs better friends." It was part of a presentation by Hawley Poinsett, a nutritionist with the Texas Beef Council.

It stuck with me, I think, because it was an angle on the role of meat in the diet that I had not previously thought about. (The conference centered on beef, but I think the point could be applied to any animal-derived protein.)

Poinsett cited several examples of how meat — specifically beef — is marketed and eaten at the consumer level. Burgers are topped with mayo and cheese and sandwiched between buns made with refined flour, usually with a huge side of fries and maybe a milkshake. A nice, lean steak is joined on the plate by creamed spinach and mashed potatoes and at least one bottle of cabernet. A pork shoulder is slow-cooked, pulled apart and mixed with a high-sugar BBQ sauce, serving on a white-bread bun (with pickles and coleslaw, thank you), fries again, baked beans and corn bread, and beer.

Much of what we meat consumers associate with the enjoyment of a carnivorous meal is unrelated to the meat itself. Rather, it's the whole package, including the sides, the beverages, perhaps the dessert. Throw in the ambience, whether it's a steakhouse or backyard barbecue, and all the emotional connections are complete.

And therein lies the problem. When nutrient-dense, lean meat products are habitually paired with high-calorie, low-nutrient — but tasty! — sides, the "bad for you" tag is easy to apply. And human beings learn to crave the fries with the meat.

As any successful dieter can tell you, though, our dining habits are learned and can be un-learned. As Poinsett so succinctly put it, beef (or, meat in general) should more often be partnered with similarly nutrient-dense foods. Marinated, grilled chicken should be marketed as part of a spinach salad more often than in a sandwich. Steaks pair nicely with roasted Brussels sprouts or asparagus with, yes, Hollandaise sauce. Burgers are still burgers without the bun.

A theory growing in popularity is that it's not fat in our diet that's the culprit in the rise of obesity and diabetes and other health issues. Rather, it's the sugar. I'm loathe to glom on to a new bogeyman, because research 30 years hence may prove it all wrong again, but the science bears watching. And meat needs to be marketed accordingly.

And hey, you didn't really need that one-more-glass of wine, did you?

'Beef needs better friends.'

Join for free* to continue reading.