Rather, I'm addressing Appellation d'Origine Contrôlée, the French food-labeling term that is intended to protect the style, ingredients and origin of a product. It mirrors the European Union’s Protected Designation of Origin program for continental countries outside of France. It’s the reason why only sparkling wine from Champagne can be called “champagne.” Roquefort can only come from Roquefort. It also protects Feta from Greece, Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese in Italy, and Jamón de Jabugo, an Iberian ham produced in the Spanish town of Jabugo.

European countries that have been granted the most Certificates of Origin for meat products and sausages are Portugal, Italy, Spain, France and Germany, covering dozens of products from Serrano ham to prosciutto di Parma to Thüringer rotwurst.

All food marketers understand that U.S. consumers love them some claims on their meats: ABF, grass-fed, organic. A segment of consumers will pay a hefty premium to secure these items; the profit, so the saying goes, is in the adjectives. So, why not an AOC for U.S. meats?

I’m not talking about country of origin labeling, but a regional designation: The finest “North Carolina pork,” creamy “Arkansas chicken,” tangy “Nebraska beef.” Considering the sophistication of genetics and breeding programs and feeding and nutrition plans, the distinctions could be narrower. Maybe “Savannah poultry” or “Badlands beef.”

I began musing on this on a recent vacation trip to Kauai, Hawai’i. It’s nigh impossible to have a bad meal anywhere in Hawai’I, but we were drawn repeatedly to a three-outlet chain on Kauai called Kenji Burger, which served only 100% grass-fed beef raised on that island.

Despite the information I have on the health benefits of grass-fed beef, most of the samples I’ve ever tried have left me unenthused. I was raised on, and crave, the “zing” of the Midwestern corn-fed stuff.

But Kenji Burger — that was another orbit altogether. Rich, creamy, nuanced with many layers of flavor. It lacked the “zing” but I didn’t even miss it. This stuff is truly crave-able.

A food scientist would have to explain why the chemistry of island-raised beef tastes so appealing, even to a diner who doesn’t usually prefer grass-fed beef. I am happy to chalk it up to the alchemy of tradewinds, warm sun, saltwater and chill island culture. And I’d pay a pretty penny to have some shipped to Chicago in February, even understanding that freezing it for the trip would take away at least some of the flavor and texture.

So I’d pay a premium, as well, for a demonstrably better “Siouxland pork” and “Hill Country beef.” Such goodies could not be pushed through the American high-volume commodity distribution system, but then, considering the current White House administration’s efforts to build up more localized links in the meat supply chain, there’s likely an opening to truly distinguish the products of a very local region. I, and many other consumers, would happily travel to sample those dishes fresh, in their region of origin.

What do you think: Could the U.S. system make room for a mosaic of regional specialty meats, each with its own delicious qualities? Or is Hawai’i, out there in the middle of the Pacific, an outlier in that regard?

A blog about AOC, but not the one you're thinking of

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