Trappist monks brewing beer in the 1600s (some of whose breweries still exist) would fit the definition of microbrewers, although it would take the mass consumption society of the United States and the U.K. to make microbrews a trend in the 1980s and '90s. American consumers were slow to pick up on the fact that many of their vaunted craft labels were, in fact, brewed by the majors: Anheuser-Busch, Miller, Coors and the like.

I remember when I learned that the rustic-sounding Plank Road Brewery, which made the Icehouse brand rolled out in the 1990s, was in fact Miller Brewing. I thought I'd been let in on some great commercial grift. I mean, you wouldn't find the word "Miller" anywhere on the packaging or the label.

I can sympathize, then, with consumers who learn that their favorite — or any — alt-meat brands are the product of the biggest meat processors on the planet, and/or are made by co-packers on the same equipment they otherwise use for beef or turkey burgers or chicken nuggets. The news catches many off-guard.

Consider, for example, the editors of Axios Chicago, a daily newsletter of business and politics produced by the Axios news organization. The two editors of our local operation both are food enthusiasts, so they write a lot about food trends and the local scene. And they both are on the eat-less-meat-and-better-meat bandwagon.

In a recent issue they waxed poetic about the Wild Fork retail store that opened nearby: "I was amazed by the offerings from this Brazilian company with a U.S. base in Florida. For those looking for dry-aged, grass-fed, pastured, organic, heritage or antibiotic-free meat, Wild Fork has your number. ... Beyond meat and seafood, it offers high-quality plant-based proteins, desserts, pasta, appetizers, vegetables, side dishes, spices, sauces and grilling supplies."

To be fair, they had bought, and liked a lot, the grass-fed, dry-aged skirt steak and the Argentine chorizo. In an email to them, though, I couldn't resist pointing out that the mysterious "Brazilian company" is, in fact, JBS S.A. Surprise!

JBS, too, is behind the Ozo plant-based brand that earlier this summer signed a deal with the Chicago Cubs to serve its products at Wrigley Field. Axios editors reviewed those eats, too — favorably, for the most part — and correctly called out the parent company.

In another setting, our publisher, Bill Kinross, sat in on a presentation by the chief growth officer of the Nowadays brand of plant-based chik'n nuggets, which boasts just seven easily understood ingredients. The audience was largely vegetarian, even vegan, at this event. In the Q&A session that followed the presentation, the exec was asked how they get their nuggets produced, as she had explained they did not have manufacturing operations of their own.

Nowadays co-packs, of course, and she named a mid-size meat company in Texas. The audience was aghast; the Nowadays founder was perplexed. This is news?

Yes, it is, for the majority of consumers who are too busy, or just don't care enough, to pull aside the curtain to peek at the nuts and bolts. The alt-meat industry's players are hard-marketing themselves as "other than" the conventional meat industry — more aware, more conscientious, cooler. And while that hasn't yet become the industry takeover that the early proponents promised, the cool factor is working.

I say there's no harm in letting them feel cool, if it's important to them. No need to point out that the industry they've portrayed as the wolf at the door is in fact the lamb laying at their feet. Consumers will figure it out in time; a wave of consolidation in the sector is inevitable, and more Big Food companies will be playing in the space. They'll have to, if alt-meat prices are to come down and availability is to increase. And JBS and Cargill and Maple Leaf and so many other often-vilified meat companies will have an additional source of revenues and profits.

That's the nuts and bolts of business. Baaaa!

Who's wearing sheep's clothing?

Join for free* to continue reading.