Living in New England during the fall is one of the most brilliant times of year. As the temperature drops the leaves give way to a symphony of color. That chill incites a natural progression toward slightly heavier meals: stews, soups, plus braised and roasted offerings using a slew of different proteins. As harvest season ramps up, we tend use more root vegetables paired with meats and grains.

I thought it would be interesting to go back to some of my old menus to pull out some forgotten favorites. This oldie but goodie pork recipe can also be morphed into a variety of different meals — IF there are any leftovers! I use a whole pork loin for this. I found that if I brine the pork overnight it helps to augment and preserve the natural juices, giving the meat a baseline flavor to build on. I use a brine with sugar and salt, water and apple cider. After it comes to a boil, I remove from heat and add in whole black peppercorns, fresh bay leaf, parsley stems and a single cinnamon stick all wrapped in cheesecloth on a string for easy removal. The next day I take my sharpening steel and push it through the center of the loin. I then fill the cavity with diced up Honeycrisp apples, pears, and figs. Once filled, I take butcher twine and tie it, which helps keep a beautiful cylindrical shape. Then I season the outside with salt and pepper and sear off the loin on all sides to a rich golden-brown. (A large Dutch oven works well.)

I previously cut up carrots, parsnips, onions, celery and any fresh root veggies we either grow or find locally. Using the same deep, heavy-duty pot that I seared off the loin (and will use to braise in) I add a few tablespoons of flour and butter, cook for a bit then whisk in roasted vegetable stock and apple cider. Then I add two tablespoons of tomato paste and cook for a few additional minutes. I place the seared loin on top of the vegetables and add enough of the semi thickened stock to come about a third of the way up the loin. I cover with a lid and place in a 350°F pre-heated oven for approximately two to two and a half hours, cooking until the internal temperature reaches 145°F. Remove from oven and remove meat to another plate and cover with foil to keep warm while you make the sauce. Allow the meat to rest for 10-15 minutes before slicing.

Pour the cooking liquid from pan into a large bowl; skim off the fat and remove half of the braised vegetables for garnish. The remaining vegetables I place in a blender and puree till smooth, season to taste, and serve as the sauce. Mashed potatoes or spätzle plus an IPA, Riesling, or Pinot Noir all work well with this dish.

My query this week is: Please share your favorite fall dish. Any history behind it?

Live Well…

Forgotten fall favorites

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